When we crafted our first product at Darlin', our mission was clear: create something genuinely beneficial for the world. Yes, it's skincare, but it's more than just about skin.
We noticed that many skincare products are overloaded with polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs). This didn't align with our belief in maintaining our skin's natural balance. Even our favorite natural brands were chock-full of PUFA-heavy oils like sunflower and grapeseed oil. The ratios were way off, disrupting the harmony between skin and nature.
Effective skincare mimics your skin's own biochemistry because your body knows best. We aimed to create products that are skin-compatible to make a real impact.
While synthetic formulas can be biomimetic, they are still synthetic. Many natural brands also rely heavily on PUFAs due to commercial skincare manufacturing practices, where formulas are often based on pre-existing recipes. It's easy to be misled down this path.
Modern life has been hijacked by industrial seed oils high in PUFAs, replacing time-tested ingredients. Our skin and overall health are paying the price.
What is a Seed Oil?
Seed oils are processed, refined, and industrialized oils derived from seeds, high in unsaturated fatty acids, which recent studies suggest may lead to poor health outcomes. Common seed oils include:
- Corn
- Canola
- Soybean
- Sunflower
- Safflower
- Grapeseed
- Rice bran
- Peanut
What About Vegetable Oils?
Vegetable oils come from various plant parts and vary widely in their fatty acid content. Some, like coconut, olive, and avocado oil, are beneficial, while others like sunflower and grapeseed oil can cause health and skin issues due to their high unsaturated fat content.
Since the early 1900s, global production of vegetable oils has skyrocketed, becoming common cooking oils today. Before plant-based oils, animal fats were used, honoring every part of the animal. Then came the industrial revolution and the rise of PUFAs.
The History of Seed Oils
In the 1940s, unsaturated seed oils were used in paints and varnishes due to their fast-drying properties. Today, these oils are still referred to as 'drying oils,' raising questions about their hydration properties in skincare.
As industries evolved, seed oils found their way into animal feed, making livestock fatter faster. Eventually, these oils entered the human food supply, driven by profit motives.
The War Against Saturated Fat
Marketing campaigns demonized saturated fats, leading to the rise of unsaturated, hydrogenated vegetable oils. This shift was driven by industry interests rather than sound science. The 'low fat' movement persisted for decades, despite being based on flawed research. Recently, seed oil critics have been vindicated by new evidence showing the harmful effects of high-PUFA oils.
Sunflower Oil in Skincare? No Thanks.
While sunflowers are lovely on a dining table, their refined, industrialized oil isn't something we'd recommend for skincare. Unstable PUFAs in seed oils can cause premature aging and worsen skin health. PUFAs also slow metabolism and trigger inflammation when consumed.
The Science of Fatty Acids
Saturated fats, stable and fully saturated with hydrogen, resist degradation from oxygen, heat, or light. Unsaturated fats, with double bonds in their carbon chains, are prone to oxidation, leading to skin damage.
There are three types of fatty acids: saturated, monounsaturated, and polyunsaturated. Saturated fats are the most stable and beneficial for skin health. Monounsaturated fats are mostly stable but can degrade over time. Polyunsaturated fats are highly unstable and prone to oxidation, making them less ideal for skincare.
Is Polyunsaturated Fat Good or Bad?
Polyunsaturated fats should be consumed in essential, not excessive, amounts. Even the best-controlled environments can't prevent their degradation. PUFAs are rich in linoleic acid, which promotes inflammation.
Why Are People Against Seed Oils? What Does PUFA Do to the Body?
PUFAs oxidize quickly, leading to inflammation and aging when applied to the skin. Facts. Recent research shows that high PUFA seed oils are also linked to multiple health issues and skin conditions.
Why Your Skin Needs More Saturated Fats
Choose stability with saturated fats like tallow, which naturally contains the same fats found in healthy human skin. Tallow's stability and rich vitamin content make it a superior skincare ingredient, capable of deeply nourishing and protecting the skin.
Zero PUFA Tallow Balm? A Marketing Ploy
While no tallow balm can be completely PUFA-free, grass-fed tallow contains PUFAs at levels appropriate for our skin. It's about maintaining a balance that aligns with our ancestral health.
At Darlin', we create skincare products in harmony with your skin and nature. The science may be complex, but our approach is simple. And that's why we use the terms "Seed Oil Conscious" and "PUFA Conscious" because we consider these properties in every Darlin' product formulation.
But What about Prickly Pear in Darlin’ Products?
While we’re not one for seed oils, due to the fact that they contain too much polyunsaturated fat (PUFA) and are usually produced via a highly industrialized process that isn’t at all sustainable or even natural. We trust that nature has given us everything we need, and that we don’t have to push and press to extremes with our machines.
Prickly Pear Oil is a seed oil, but it’s one of those ancient ones - and one that we believe is an exception to the seed oil news. For centuries, people in Mexico – and later in Morocco – have been processing the oil by hand. It’s a laborious process, but the oil’s incredible ability to moisturize and heal the skin is worth the effort.
Now, what about those polyunsaturated fats (PUFAs)? We get it—low-PUFA oils are usually the way to go. But here’s the twist: Prickly Pear Seed Oil is packed with an incredible amount of vitamin E, especially δ-tocopherol, which naturally prevents oxidation. This means the oil is less likely to age your skin cells.
How much vitamin E? Well, let’s compare it to argan oil, famous for its vitamin E content. Prickly Pear Seed Oil has three times more vitamin E! Plus, it's much more sustainable. The unsustainable process behind most seed oils is a major turn-off, not just the oxidation risks. So, Prickly Pear Seed Oil is a rare exception, used for centuries as food, medicine, skincare, and more.
Prickly Pear is loaded with Betalains—powerful antioxidants that scream anti-aging. Not only do they keep your skin looking fresh and firm, but they also boost your skin’s defense against harmful bacteria and viruses. They're also anti-inflammatory heroes. While you might think of pomegranate, acai, beetroot, and blueberries for Betalains, Prickly Pear blows them out of the water. It’s the only plant with all 24 known Betalains!
And let’s not forget vitamin K, which brightens pigment spots, zaps dark circles, reduces redness, and heals wounds. It's like the ultimate skin brightener and healer all in one. Prickly Pear Oil is expensive for good reason (see above about how it’s made), and it’s highly concentrated.
By embracing the wisdom of nature and the time-honored traditions of our ancestors, we're able to create skincare that not only nourishes and protects but also respects the environment and our bodies. At Darlin', we believe in celebrating the beauty and efficacy of ingredients like tallow and Prickly Pear Oil, which stand the test of time and science. So, when it comes to your skin, trust in the power of natural stability and let nature do the talking.
